Reflective essay

I feel this has been one of my better modules. I am quite pleased with the work i submitted. I am particularly happy with my final garments which is unusual for me. I think this is because i managed my time fairly well during this project and started making the final garments a couple of weeks before the deadline.

I found having to alter my style to suit Vivienne Westwood has been really beneficial to me as it has forced me to try out a new way of working which appears to be more productive for me. I also found the design development workshops really useful as it meant i couldn't dawdle like i usually do. It forced me to make decisions quickly and i ended up producing twice the amount of work.

My weakest part of my submission was my sketchbook. I found i lacked enthusiasm when doing it and i think that is evident in my work. If i was to do this project again I would allocate more time at the beginning of the module for sketchbooking as once i start making my garments i cant find the time to do anything else.

Overall i feel i have learnt a lot about myself as a designer in this module, and have developed a much more productive way of working.

Illustration

Just finished my illustration. I think i like it. I had no idea how i was going to illustrate the houndstooth fabric so i thought the best way was to scan it in and create the whole thing on photoshop. I think i need to start experimenting with different techniques though as i always end up using the same one.

Range Plan

I've been doing a range plan using my final collection garments as part of my learning contract.

I just thought you might like to see it.

Final range

I had to edit my range as i'd changed the outfit i was going to make.

Here it is:

I actually think my old range looked a lot better but I couldn't achieve the same colouring for some reason so this will have to do.

Decisions decisions...

Time to decide on buttons!

I'm thinking the bronze buttons as i like the contrast.

Fabric Board

Here's my fabric board. The fabrics are my main link to Westwood so i have chosen checkered wools mainly. I am going to make my jumpsuit with the blue houndstooth (second from the left). I have chosen a plain flecked blue wool for the hooded tailored jacket.

Colour board

Here's my colour board. i have chosen colours which have kept coming up in my sketchbook.

The colour scheme is based on blues, browns and beiges.

Making my jumpsuit

I've been slaving away over the sewing machine for the past couple of days trying to get my garments done. I've basically got the shell of the garments now, i just need to finish them (lining etc.)

I've decided to bind the seams in my jumpsuit to achieve the couture quality

here's a couple of photos i took along the way:

Garment fit tutorial

Today was my garment fit tutorial. It went surprisingly well; i dont have much to change at all so i can get on and start making my final garments after these few changes:

• Make the bottom of the legs longer so they scrunch up more
• Make the fly zip longer
• Curve the waistband of the jumpsuit more

I've pretty much done most of the changes already.

I just need to do a lining pattern for my jacket and re-do the fly zip pattern.

Diffusion range

I decided to go for a more workwear focused collection in the end, so designed for Westwood's Red Label. I decided to try out a new illustration technique which quite frankly is rubbish! so i'm going to have to re-draw it at some point.

Final toile (before garment fit tutorial)

After making the changes to the hood facing, i've got to the final toile stage (well thats before the million changes i'll have to make after my garment fit tutorial on friday). Sorry i've only taken photos of it on the mannequin. I'll take photos of it on me at a later date.

With hood down...

And with hood up...

I'm not too sure about the lining now as it looks a bit messy where it's sort of loose. My other option is to just bind the edges and seams. I might make a couple of samples to see which looks best.

Hood issues

So i made all the changes from my last toile, and lined the hood which you can see below. Problem is, the facing is too small because i just extended the line on the pattern rather than traced it from the other side, if that makes any sense. Anyway, the facing is too small so sits horribly, meaning i've got to change the pattern yet again!

Vivienne Westwood diffusion ranges

I looked at the diffusion ranges Vivienne Westwood offers. She has quite a few:

Red label - This is her middle range which is cheaper than her gold label, but more expensive than anglomania. I noticed this range had a bigger focus on workwear. The style-lines were simpler than her Gold label, and are more wearable.

Anglomania - which is her cheapest range. I noticed that this was her most wearable range, and quite casual compared to the gold and red labels. When i went into Liberty's to look at her clothes, the fabrics used weren't as nice either, with tailored jackets being made out of Polyester. I think i might design my diffusion range for this label as my designs are quite casual already - but it could be a bigger challenge to make my designs more formal so this could change!

She also has a 'MAN' collection which is menswear obviously so I'm not really interested in that.

Westwood also offers bags, jewellery and shoes which might be something to design later if i have time.

Powerpoint presentation

Here's my powerpoint presentation about the history of Vivienne Westwood.

Second toile

I traced the hood pattern from the draped hood, incorporating the darts into a new panel down the centre of the hood. It definitely looks better, but now the hood is curving round the face too much. When i put it on i couldn't even see, so i'll have to trim it back quite a way or add some fabric to the centre panel.

First toile

The jacket shape

First i made the pattern for the cropped jacket and made it up in calico shown below. To make it tailored i've added shoulder pads and vents in the sleeves.

Next i had to drape the hood. I've never made a hood before so i found a pattern cutting book with some information about it. I basically drew a big rectangle and then guessed the shape. I decided it was probably better to drape it.

I managed to get the draping of the hood i wanted at the bottom, but as you can see in the photo above it was gaping aroung the head massively.

I put some darts in around the head to make the fit better.

I then turned it round the right way to make sure it was the right shape i wanted:

Front view

Side view

The back

The hood

I dont like the shape of the hood with the 2 darts so i'm going to insert a panel down the centre which incorporates the 2 darts.

Building my collection

To put my collection together, i first chose all of my favourite garments, then cut them out so i could use them in a sort of doll dressing exercise.

I started by choosing the dresses, jumpsuit and bottoms i was going to use.

Then i started mix and matching the tops to the bottoms.

I then put all the outfits together and made sure they worked together.

I then brought some jackets into the collection by doing the same thing, finalising the outfits.

Here's my collection:

Design development session 3

The task is getting easier with each week. I'm managing to produce designs a lot quicker. I used a fine liner to stop myself from faffing about.

Jackets

Dresses

Trousers